Emily in France 🇫🇷 Hello from Lyon!
Lyon is a foodie dream.
It would be easy to assume, given the press it gets, that Paris is France's culinary capital. And while Paris was indeed home to the birth of the restaurant (in the 1700s), the bistro (in the 1800s), and indeed much of the pomp and circumstance and structure that makes French haute cuisine what it is today, in reality, Lyon may be the cradle of what many love so very much about French food.
Lyon is known for hearty saucissons and other charcuteries (including a veal-based version of the andouillette I recently wrote about for Food & Wine and some of the very best pâtés en croûte in the world). It's known for the almost cloyingly sweet pink pralines that pop up in everything from tarts to brioches. It's known for rich plats en sauce cultivated by its mères: pioneering female chefs whose talent and ingenuity turned many eyes (and palates) to this city at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers and would influence generations to come. It is known for its markets, for its proximity to the Alps (and thus many, many Alpine cheeses) and to the Rhône Valley (and thus many, many bottles of excellent wine).
(If you want to learn more, you could always pay Lucy at Plum Lyon Teaching Kitchen a visit! This resident expert on everything cuisine lyonnaise will be happy to guide you on a discovery of Lyonnais markets, cooking, and more.)
As for me? I've discovered Lyonnais cuisine primarily via its bouchons: local restaurants that specialize in the homey, copious, convivial cuisine that makes Lyon so special. I have visited four so far, each distinct in its own way. On previous visits, Le Poêlon d'Or introduced me to more classic Lyonnais fare, while Le Bouchon des Filles added a slightly more contemporary twist.
(For my most recent discovery, keep on reading!)
What I'm Eating
Bouchon Tupin in the heart of Lyon offers a slightly lighter, more modern look at bouchon fare, with a mushroom-studded pâté en croûte and a veggie version of what are usually pork-heavy terrines. But don't miss the truly decadent pike with crayfish sauce! It's a standout and a classic and decidedly not light at all.
Discover these treats and more on the blog. (And for more of my foodie finds, follow me on Instagram @emily_in_france.)
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What I'm Writing
1. Pretty much the only reality show I watch is the now-cancelled Kitchen Nightmares. (No worries – there are many, many hours of reruns.) So I was super excited to rank my top 30 episodes of Gordon Ramsay yelling at people. (And yeah, schadenfreude was a major deciding factor for an ep's rank.) For Mashed.
 2. D.C.'s dining scene is popping with international arrivals from Spanish comfort food to Mexican grilling spectacles. Find out where locals are most excited to dine this month! For the Inside Hook.
3. Adaptogens are much-lauded in natural wellness circles for their purported stress-busting benefits, but as with many products not controlled by the FDA, the waters are murky at best. I tried to clear them up a bit for Organic Authority.
What I'm Reading
1. Spotted Dick S’il Vous Plait does for Lyon what A Year In Provence did for Provence, exploring the trials and tribulations of owning and running a restaurant in France’s foodie capital. My thoughts on the blog.
2. Immigration is nothing if not a fraught topic in the U.S. of late, especially as it relates to race. I found this interview about the whitening of America's Irish immigrants fascinating and humbling: an excellent reminder of why it is so essential to be an accomplice – not just an ally – in the anti-racist fight. Z Magazine.
3. Are the French just Italians in a bad mood? An amusing and interesting perspective from Italy Magazine.
A bientôt !