Emily in France 🇫🇷 August is Here, So Parisians Are Not
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In other news, les aoûtiens have flown the proverbial coop, abandoning Paris for even warmer climes. (And given the 90-degree heat here, that's saying something.) Parisians, to put it lightly, are quite fond of their summer holidays, with folks really leaning into the five (or more) weeks they get each year. As a freelancer and proud workaholic, I never really take a vacation, but I'm always on the go, and soon, I too will be bise-ing Paris à bientôt. Follow me on Instagram for my next adventures, which will be taking me to Derby, London, Cannes, and, of course, La Ciotat!
I've been spending time in this beautiful Mediterranean seaside town ever since my dear friend Camille moved there with her partner several years ago, but this summer, I'll also be getting things ready for the lucky seven who will be joining us for our brand spanking-new retreat, featuring 20 hours of hands-on pottery instruction at Camille's professional studio in the heart of the old town, as well as cooking classes and cheese workshops taught by yours truly, all set against the backdrop of the chirping cicadas and the cool blue Mediterranean. And of course, there will be more than pétanque competitions, seeing as La Ciotat is the true home of the "sport" best played with a glass of local rosé in one hand!
Sounds dreamy, doesn't it? Snag your spot before they all sell out – Early Bird pricing is only in effect for a few more weeks!
Cheese of the Week
I tried vegan cheese!
Yep, that bloomy-rinded sucker up there isn't made with cow, sheep, or even goat milk, but rather with cashew milk. But that doesn't mean it's highly processed! Camenjou is actually made using the same fermentation processes as a normal Camembert, for the white rind and mushroomy, slightly ammoniac aroma fans of bloomies know and love. Flavor-wise, it's camembert-esque... though the texture is a little bit closer to that of tofu. Nevertheless, it's a pretty good option for those avoiding dairy.
To discover more of my favorite cheeses, be sure to follow me on Instagram @emily_in_france and tune into the Terroir Podcast, where Caroline Conner and I delve into France's cheese, wine, and more one region at a time.
What I'm Eating
I returned to Le Grand Bain this weekend to try out their summer menu, and as always, I was impressed – particularly by this delicious play on steak tartare featuring fresh raspberries and peanutty salsa macha. (Of course, I also had to get the gougères. Again.) More on the blog.
Discover more of my foodie finds via Instagram @emily_in_france.
Where I'm Going
1. To the American Library in Paris (no surprise) to stock up on books for The GREAT RETURN OF MY ATYPICAL CANNES BEACH VACATION! Featuring: many picnics, lots of swims, many oysters, much ice cream, and my all-time favorite Emily. (AKA: Not me and also not Lily Collins. Sorry.) Not featuring: anything glitzy, glamorous, or otherwise precluding me from wearing flip-flops.
2. To London for a craft beer festival. (As you do.)
3. To Laurent Dubois, for one last cheese shop before my departure.
What I'm Writing
1. You've still got time to check out the eight mezcals Chicago's biggest mezcal fan thinks you need this summer. For InsideHook.
2. From the archives: With its grapefruit aromas and barely-there color, Provençal rosé has been the pink wine of reference for years, supplanting the sweet white Zinfandels that used to dominate the pink section, now consigned to history. But darker rosés are rich in character and perfect for pairing with food, as I explore for Pix.
3. From the archives: With its summery combination of aubergines, courgettes, peppers and tomatoes, ratatouille is a beloved classic of southern French cuisine, particularly in Nice. But this simple, seasonal stew is more complex than it may seem at first glance. I dug into it for the BBC.
What I'm Saying
1. Ardèche is a little-known paradise, rich in rugged landscapes and rustic cuisine governed by a reliance on potatoes, wild fruit, and chestnuts. Tune into this week's episode of the Terroir Podcast to discover how chestnuts saved local industry following the death of the silk trade and discover some local wines, cheeses, and even ice cream!
2. During lockdown, the Countess Marie de Tilly took to TikTok to teach dos and don'ts to the youngest generation of French society. She’s joins me on this week's episode of Navigating the French to discuss a word that evokes some of these rules – and to explore why its innate rigidity might mean a different word is better suited to talking about politeness and respect: étiquette. Tune in here!
What I'm Reading
1. My inability to consume popular culture while it's still popular is deeply rooted (Exhibit A: Breaking Bad, which I watched in 2015 and never finished despite loving it. Exhibit B: The Bear, which I still haven't watched, much to the chagrin of one of my dearest friends, to whom I say... I will watch it in London, I swear.) True to form, I finally got around to reading Normal People this year, and while I was impressed with Sally Rooney's ability to capture the Millennial zeitgeist, and I found it an easy, enjoyable read and really have nothing to fault it for... it just didn't hook me. And I wonder if that's a me problem linked to the fact that I read it so late.
2. Turns out Europeans have always had a hard time digesting milk and yet continue to eat cheese. To which I say... thanks, Ancient Europeans. In the Washington Post.
3. “I don’t have direct access to experience, I always have to put it into words. I’m not saying that’s bad. It’s my reason for being, it’s why I’m here, and I’m not complaining, I’m terrifically lucky to have what’s known as a vocation. But all the same, how good it would be, how restful it would be, what a huge step forward it would be, if I could make fewer sentences and see a little more.” This and more from Emmanuel Carrère in the New Yorker.
A bientôt !