Emily in France 🇫🇷 I Talked About Gastrodiplomacy in French
I did a thing.
(Showing my Millennial colors, amirite?)
No, but seriously, when I was in Dijon a few weeks ago, I alluded to the fact that I was there to speak at a conference – a conference you can now watch (if you speak French) here.
The subject of the conference, which was held in the gorgeous Palais des Ducs in Dijon, was gastrodiplomacy, with a focus on the diplomacy side of things. The stage I occupied on that Friday had welcomed such illustrious speakers as Alain Juppé and Hubert Védrine in the hours before I took to it, accompanied by Chef Fatéma Hal and Patrick Rambourg, a historian I've had the pleasure of interviewing in the past on subjects as wide-ranging as the ever-evolving grammar of the French meal (Whetstone), the decadence of 19th-century bourgeois meals (Vice), the history of riz au lait (BBC), and the return of France's forgotten vegetables (Atlas Obscura). This was the first occasion we'd had to meet in person, though, and meeting both him and Chef Hal, who is a legend and someone I very much hope to work with down the line, was a highlight of the experience.
The talk itself was the first I've done of its kind – and definitely the first time I've been asked to broach many of the topics we addressed, from cultural appropriation to the place of French food on the global stage, in French. It was terrifying and awesome and bent time in a crazy sort of way so that when I got off the stage, my 14 pages of notes barely dented, I was sure I had managed to say nothing of interest at all.
My hope, as I gear up to rewatch it (something that makes me understand those actors who say they never watch the films in which they appear), is that I managed to evoke even some of the massive complexity of the food culture that has surrounded me these past 15 years: its prestige and its protection, its image and its reality, the way that it has morphed and changed and evolved over centuries... and even in the short time that I've been here. After all, that's such a huge part of what motivates me to go to work every single day. And while I may not have fully done it justice, I tried – and I will keep trying.
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Cheese of the Week
Next up in the category of "My Job Takes Me to Awesome Places": I've just arrived in Newport, Wales, where at 9am tomorrow morning, I'll be judging a cheese competition! (Follow my Insta story for regular updates, or check back in next week for the highlights in this newsletter.) In a nod to my current location, then, (where, it must be said, I nearly ordered the Welsh cheese selection for dinner before deciding that I couldn't possibly [yes, I'm currently regretting that choice]) I give you Caws Teifi, a raw milk gouda-style cheese infused with nettles. With a vegetal character and a super creamy texture, it's no surprise that it's multi-award-winning. I look forward to trying the seaweed version next!
Staying on-theme, discover a cider-washed Welsh cheese known as Golden Cenarth – perfect on its own or on a toastie – in this week's YouTube short!
To discover more of my favorite cheeses, be sure to follow me on Instagram @emily_in_france and tune into the Terroir Podcast, where Caroline Conner and I delve into France's cheese, wine, and more one region at a time.
What I'm Eating
I'm generally not big on brunch, but the version at Fontaine de Belleville is pretty great, with really tasty "blinis" that struck me as more similar to English muffins and viennoiseries from Sain, plus exquisite coffee from Brulerie Belleville. More on the blog.
Discover more of my foodie finds via Instagram @emily_in_france and on the blog.
Where I'm Going
1. To the Word Cheese Awards, to judge just some of the 4,000+ entries in this prestigious competition.
2. To Orpington, to see one of my dearest friends, eat vindaloo at the Bombay, and finally witness some fireworks on the 5th of November.
3. To Brasserie Rosie, to catch up with a friend (and dig into their new menu!)
What I'm Writing
1. This newly renovated Burgundian hotel is a masterclass in fine dining. For InsideHook.
2. The story behind Mariko Grady's miso, a favorite of Michelin-starred chefs that began as a way to help earthquake victims. For InsideHook.
3. From the archives: From tiny ovens to hidden cranberries, I delved into how to survive Thanksgiving in Paris for Serious Eats.
What I'm Saying
Make 'em laugh? Not necessarily! In France, comédie retains some of its Ancient Greek meaning – and doesn't have to include any jokes. To explore why this is – as well as how that infamous French bureaucracy protects actors – we're welcoming Paris Underground Radio producer and founder Jennifer Geraghty.
What I'm Reading
1. In what is perhaps my most Gemini trait, while I am massively into Halloween, I hate being scared. I was so pleased to discover a kindred spirit in this essay on the appeal of spookiness. In Dirt.
2. In a world defined by micro-aesthetics (cottage core is just the beginning...) one woman has undertaken the challenge of explaining them to the rest of us. In Vox.
3. Hand spaghetti. That's all I'm gonna say. In Atlas Obscura.
A bientôt !