Emily in France π«π· Discovering the (Italian) King of Cheeses

Italian cheese in France.
I'm not usually one for cooking classes β they dangerously approach the "organized fun" category of experiences I tend to eschew β but when Eataly invited me to join in on a Parmesan discovery, it seemed far too nerdy (and delicious) to say no.

We began by exploring Parmesans at a range of ages, from a baby 14-month to an ultra-aged 60-month, with stopovers at 24, 36, and 48 months. It was a tasting flight that was of particular interest in France, where, the team explained, a certain local pride means that many don't necessarily see the richness of true Parmigiano-Reggiano as a savoir-faire comparable to local cheesemaking.

Twenty-four is the standard Parmesan you find in most great grocers and restaurants, with excellent balance β it's the prototypical ideal of what great Parmesan should be. At 36, you start to get that incredible amino acid calcification that means that crystals of pure umami yield temptingly under the tooth.
Surprisingly, past 36, the cheese didn't seem to get any stronger, but rather almost sweeter, losing much of its lactic acidity, so that by 60 months, it had a lovely fruitiness and a touch of piquant bitterness.

Once we'd tasted the whole flight, it was time to get cooking: a three-course meal in which Parmesan featured in every course. First, a potato "cake" filled with vegetables and seasoned heavily with both Parmesan and scamorza. A quick cherry tomato and basil sauce was the perfect finishing touch.

Next up the richest butternut squash and Parmesan lasagna I've ever had the pleasure of enjoying, made with our very own hand-made lasagna pasta sheets and loads of delicious guanciale. (I did say rich, didn't I?)

And for dessert (yep!) a clementine crumble with Parmesan worked into the rich, buttery topping. It wasn't cheesy, per se, but rather umami-rich and nutty β the perfect finishing touch showing just how very versatile this cheese is.
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Cheese of the Week
Of course, I couldn't keep myself from going home from the experience without a little goodie bag. This 60-month aged Parmesan is delicious on pasta, but enjoying a shard of it is even more blissful. It's ideal paired with Lambrusco, a low-tannin sparkling Italian red that cuts through the richness of the cheese.

The aroma of this smoked goat cheese crottin is oh-so-evocative of fall. It's a creation from Maison Quatrehomme, one of my favorite affineurs in Paris.
To discover more of my favorite cheeses, be sure to follow me on Instagram @emily_in_france, subscribe to my YouTube channel,Β and tune into the Terroir Podcast, where Caroline ConnerΒ and I delve into France's cheese, wine, and more one region at a time.

What I'm Eating
Thereβs a reason why Chez Georges is often appended by the phrase βrue du Mail.β Paris is home to no shortage of establishments bearing the same name, but those in the know know that this one in the 2nd arrondissement, which has been serving up bistro staples since 1964, isΒ theΒ Chez Georges on record. And Iβve finally confirmed for myself just why this bistro is so storied. More on the blog.
Discover more of my foodie finds viaΒ Instagram @emily_in_franceΒ andΒ on the blog.
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Where I'm Going
Back to NYC for two blissful weeks of smothering my siblings with hugs and feeding my face with sushi, bagels, and pizza. (Not simultaneously.)
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WhatΒ I'm Writing
1.Β Thomas Deck is updating an ancient French beer for modern drinkers. In Atlas Obscura.
2. All of Chicagoβs best holiday cocktails, as curated by Tia Barrett. Plus, how to pair them. For InsideHook.
3.Β Amy Guittard of Guittard Chocolate weighs in on everything you need to know about chocolate's most enduring myths. For InsideHook.
What I'm Reading
1.Β Lincoln in the Bardo has been on my to-read pile for a loooooong time, but Iβve often balked due to its offbeat form, where every voice is βcitedβ like you're reading an academic paper rather than a novel. But once you get used to the style, it offers a profound look at loss and our oh-so-human disregard for the truths that hurt the most.
2.Β Stilton is one of my favorite cheeses, and I was shocked and horrified to read that for many of my generation, itβs reminiscent of βsweaty socks.β And worse, itβs currently undergoing an βalarmingβ decrease in sales. In the Telegraph.
3.Β I work with a lot of PR companies, and often, the experience is great, but this article about saying βyesβ to every pitch that lands in your inbox for a day had me laughing out loud (and glad Iβd never done the experiment on my ownβ¦) In Slate.
A bientΓ΄t !