Summer in Paris demands picnics… and a lot of them. While the past week has been relatively cool (and we've experienced no shortage of downpours…) generally speaking, the longer days and warmer weather compounded with a veritable dearth of air conditioning means that Parisians, yours truly included, often take to the local parks come dinnertime, armed with a baguette (or two), some cheese, and a bottle of wine.
(While this is technically not allowed, the most a policier has ever said to me when I’m pouring wine in a park is Santé!)
A word of warning: Most Parisian parks close come sunset (though this summer, some are staying open 24 hours a day!) If ever you need another 24-hour spot at which to picnic, the Canal Saint-Martin and Seine banks are popular choices.
With that in mind – and with the ardent desire, occasionally, to sit, not on concrete, but on grass… here are my five faves. (Plus a few hints at where to source your dinner nearby.)
Parc Montsouris
This 19th century public park was one of four added to the city by Emperor Napoleon III during his 19th century renovation of the city. The 15.5 hectare park is a truly sprawling example of an English landscape garden, complete with a lake, a waterfall, and a guignol theater. It’s a bit of a trek for right bankers, as it’s at the périphérique end of the 14th arrondissement, but I believe it’s well worth the journey.
To have the perfect park picnic here, get off the metro at Tolbiac (line 13), and then walk to Maison M'Seddi (202, rue de Tolbiac), home of 2019's Best Baguette in Paris. Walk over to Fromagerie Quatrehomme (32, rue de l'Espérence) for cheese (the house specialty is a smoked Charolais goat cheese, and it's to die for). Then stop off at the Blue Grape (225 rue de Tolbiac) for a bottle of wine before wandering to the park.
Total walking time: 21 minutes
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to Emily in France to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.