Emily in France 🇫🇷 You're About to Become a Local

Hi, I'm Emily, and I live in Paris.

It sounds like a dream, and some days it is. Some days, it's more of a bureaucratic nightmare. But either way, after 12 years, it's home, and I'm excited to share it with you.

Each week in this newsletter, you'll be getting insider's tips on what to do, see, and eat in Paris. I'll share stories about what's happening on the ground in France, not to mention tidbits about my real life as a writer and expat.

This is Emily's Paris – bienvenue !

Where I'm Eating

Now that the weather is resolutely wintery in Paris (we actually had some rare snowfall last week) I'm holing up in what is possibly my favorite bistro in Paris: Allard.

This restaurant from the Alain Ducasse group can be found down a charming street in the Latin Quarter and is my favorite example of an authentic, traditional bistro in modern Paris. The kitchen is helmed by a badass female chef, Fanny Herpin, who makes a mean baba au rhum. And while the menu can be a bit pricey, the lunchtime three-course prix fixe is a steal at 34 euro.

Check out my full review of Allard here (and you can find my ever-evolving list of my favorite Paris restaurants here).
 

Where I'm Going

1. When the weather gets chilly, there's truly nothing better than a Parisian movie theater. My fave is the Filmothèque du Quartier Latin, known for its auteur-driven retrospectives. This week, they're showing Two-Lane Blacktop starring James Taylor and Dennis Wilson, which is exactly what this expatriated American needs.

2. On Saturday, you're probably going to find me at the book braderie at Librairie rue de l'Echiquier scoping out the discounted books. The books at this sale are slightly damaged tomes that can no longer be sold as new (and would otherwise be destroyed). Gotta save the books!

3. While as a tour guide, I spend most of my time at the Louvre, as a private citizen, I can say without question that my favorite museum in Paris is the Marmottan. This former private mansion exocentrically located in the 16th boasts the largest collection of paintings by Claude Monet in the world. There's currently an exhibit on displaying 60 Impressionist works from private collections, so that's where you'll find me one rainy afternoon this week.

What I'm Writing

1. Despite Paris being super famous for its cafés, until recently, the café (coffee) here wasn't anything to write home about. Thankfully, that's all changing! Find out more at Curiosity Magazine.
2. Moving to a foreign country changes everything... including how you deal with your bank. My personal essay on foreignness and customer service is in the inaugural issue of My French Country Home Magazine.
3. Those who know me well know that I drink a slightly ridiculous amount of water. I chatted with experts to find out how much we should really be drinking (and it's not eight glasses a day). Find out more at Organic Authority.
 

What I'm Reading

1. This essay by George Saunders that explores, among other things, the importance of specificity in writing.
2. This story from Lorrie Moore about writing your way through pain.
3. This "crafty" craft essay from Zadie Smith that delves into a writing style so incredibly different from mine it was like a trip to a foreign country.
(All of which, it must be said, were recommended to me by talented fellow Parisian expat writers.)

A bientôt !
Emily in France