A Perfect Day in the 11th Arrondissement
You're gonna eat. A lot.
As compared to other European capitals like London or Rome, Paris is actually relatively well-contained and pretty walkable. And while the streets definitely don't run in straight lines (much to the horror of this native New Yorker), it’s relatively easy to see where you're going thanks to the system of arrondissements or districts, numbered 1 to 20, which spiral out in a snail shell shape from the first in the center to the 20th in the northeast.
After nearly 20 years here, one of my favorite activities is to explore unfamiliar corners of Paris, getting to know the personality and unique offerings of each of the arrondissements. And this gave me the idea for a new series exclusively for my subscribers: my hit list, if you will, of the must-dos (and must-eats) in each of Paris’ 20 districts.
We’ve already ventured through the 1st arrondissement, home to the Louvre, and the 2nd arrondissement, Paris’ smallest. We’ve delved into the 3rd arrondissement, aka most of the Marais, as well as the islands that encompass much of the 4th arrondissement.
We wended our way through the 5th arrondissement, Paris’ oldest, and through the 6th arrondissement, long beloved by literary legends. We paid a visit to the Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement, and we soaked up the luxury in the 8th arrondissement. We dug into the delicious 9th arrondissement, and I’ve taken you on a tour of my home in the 10th arrondissement.
Now, foodies are in for a real treat: Welcome to the 11th arrondissement!
The 11th Arrondissement in Short
A friend and colleague who splits her time between Bordeaux and the 11th calls it the Williamsburg of Paris, and frankly, the description is apt. This neighborhood in the northeast of Paris wasn't all that much of a destination until a few years ago, when young, innovative chefs started opening restaurants that defied French tradition.
What the 11th lacks in tourist draws and green spaces, it more than makes up for in good eats. The crowd here is resolutely hipster, and most of them are English speakers, whether native or otherwise. They come here for creative, fusion fare and natty wines, so classic French bistros are a bit thin on the ground. But if you’ve got an adventurous palate, this is definitely, as the French would say, ze place to be.
The 11th borders the 10th to the north/northwest along the rue du Faubourg du Temple and the 19th and 20th to the east along boulevard de Belleville, boulevard de Ménilmontant, and boulevard de Charonne. To the south, it cuts Place de la Nation in half and is divided from the 12th along rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, meeting the Marais at Place de la Bastille and wending to the west along boulevard de Beaumarchais and at Place de la République. With the ritzier north Marais at one end and up-and-coming neighborhoods like Belleville and Ménilmontant on the other, the 11th has a particularly interesting flavor.
The Landmarks: Place de la Nation, Place de la Bastille, Atelier des Lumières
The Vibe: Foodie, hipster, trendy
My Perfect Day in the 11th Arrondissement
Grab your eating pants, friends: The 11th lacks the tourist draws of many other arrondissements, but it’s a real banquet for any foodies, beginning with breakfast.
I could easily send you to so many places here, from the award-winning Utopie (20, rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud) to Tâpisserie, a tiny, delicious pâtisserie from the folks behind Septime. But since the 11th is a little bit green-space-poor, I’m going to make my choice based on where there’s a pretty park to dig in, in this case, the Jardin Truillot (82, boulevard Voltaire) which features lovely views of the Saint-Ambroise church across the way. It’s also home to a community garden where you’ll see grapevines and fruit trees, and there’s even a public free sparkling water dispenser.
First, score a perfect Italian espresso or cappuccino from Napoli Caffè (40, rue Popincourt) or a locally roasted filter coffee from Ten Belles Bread (17, rue Bréguet). It’s worth noting that both of these spots also have on-site seating and breakfast options (sfogliatella at the former, English-inspired cinnamon rolls or full breakfasts with pancakes and fried eggs at the latter). But if you ask me, you should get your coffee to go and enjoy it with a viennoiserie from the quietly excellent classic Boulangerie Saint-Ambroise (90, boulevard Voltaire), whose croissants are the perfect marriage of crispy exterior and buttery interior.
Now that you’ve had breakfast, it’s time to see some sights. Wander past the imposing 19th-century Saint-Ambroise church to Atelier des Lumières (38, rue Saint-Maur), an immersive art center whose ever-rotating exhibits are projected onto the walls and set to music. I've seen shows devoted to Van Gogh, the Impressionists, the Surrealists, and more, and I’ve always been impressed.
From there, take a wander through the pretty Square de la Roquette (143, rue de la Roquette), which is planted up with loads of lovely flowerbeds.
The 11th is also home to a several morning markets, which change location depending on the day of the week. On Thursdays and Sundays, the imposing Bastille market dominates boulevard Richard-Lenoir from 7am to 2:30pm; on Tuesdays and Fridays, you can find the Popincourt market a bit further to the west. On Saturday mornings, meanwhile, an organic market takes place on Place du Père Chaillet. Any of them offer a great opportunity to sink into the sights, sounds, and smells of the neighborhood… which should be just enough to whet your appetite for lunch.
There is so much to choose from in the 11th, so consider this a short list of only my very favorite options.
