Emily In France Exclusive 🇫🇷 5 Delicious Ways to Cool Off in Paris

From the desk of an expat.

I grew up in New York City, where come June, it’s typically impossible to step outside without being suddenly shower-damp with sweat. Paris lacks the humidity and scorching temperatures of NYC most of the time, but typically, at least once a summer, we will have a week-long canicule or heat wave. And we're feeling the heat right now.

Visitors to Paris often note that we're not blessed with nearly as much A/C or as many fans as in the U.S. This is largely due to climate concerns (and perhaps linked to the fact that historically, Paris didn't really get this hot, but of course *climate change isn't real*.) Thankfully, many old Parisian buildings are built to withstand the heat, Prêt à Manger reliably has air conditioning, and what’s more, there are loads of delicious ways to cool off. Here are my favorites.

Ice Cream

The second the temperatures reach 30, lines snake out the doors of Paris’ top glaciers. Storied stalwart Berthillon has been making French-style crème glacée on the Ile Saint-Louis since 1954, and while these tiny scoops are pricy, they're still some of the best. Amorino, meanwhile, is a French gelato chain serving generous flower-like scoops you'll find in nearly every Parisian neighborhood.

My personal go-tos include Sucre Glace (61, quai de Valmy, 75010) for their creamy sorbets, which often marry fruits and herbs like blueberry-elderflower and apricot-rosemary. I’m also a massive fan of Reÿs Eternelle Glacier (4, rue du Bourg Tibourg, 75004), which makes creative gelati whose flavors are inspired either by nostalgic memories or by travels to far-flung locales. I can't resist the "Balade à Bangkok," made with Thai rice ice cream, coconut milk, and lemongrass, or “Réveil des Sens,” a sorbet combining grapefruit, hazelnut, and ginger. And if you can't choose, a 25-euro sampler platter allows you to taste each and every flavor.

Citron Pressé

I spend most of my afternoons writing in a Parisian café (yes, I am a walking cliché.) When it’s warm out, my go-to tipple is a citron pressé: essentially a make-your-own lemonade.

When you order a citron pressé, the waiter will deliver at least three items: a glass of straight lemon juice, a pitcher of cold water, and a side of sugar for you to combine to your liking. That said, no two cafés do these quite the same: Some include ice in the glass or in a small pail on the side; some give you raw cane sugar while others just toss you a few sugar packets. The volume of cold water may be plentiful or paltry. Some, like Le 52 Faubourg (52 rue du Faubourg Saint Denis, 75010) even offer sparkling water instead of flat or make it with lime juice instead of lemon like Le Balto (27, rue Victor Massé, 75009).

No matter how they’re made, I find them undeniably refreshing.

Cold Brew

I still remember a time when my requests for a café glacé led to a lot of hairy eyeballs – and I distinctly recall one occasion when I simply asked for an espresso, a glass of water, and a glass of ice and proceeded to messily make my own. After that, I resorted to Starbucks, but in recent years, Paris has finally embraced, not just craft coffee, but the delicate art of cold brew. And while some places have a rather middling approach, others prove positively excellent.