Emily In France Exclusive 🇫🇷 5 Essential Fall Cheeses

From the desk of an expat.

I grew up in the Northeast, which means that fall is synonymous with things like cider doughnuts, cinnamon-spiced everything, and a whole lot of pumpkin. But in Paris, the offerings are a little bit different.

Tiny orange-yellow mirabelle plums the size of cherries burst with an almost exotic flavor not dissimilar to coconut. Deep-hued grapes lend credence to the black color evoked in Champagne’s blanc de noirs. A return of the r in September means oysters are no longer milky, ready to be enjoyed at countless restaurants and bars specializing in them throughout the capital. On bistro menus, meanwhile, long-standing favorites like slow-simmered beef bourguignon and veal blanquette return to warm us on dreary days.

And of course, there’s perhaps my favorite autumnal bounty: the cheeses.

Yes, friends; cheese has a season. And while there’s much talk of summer as the time when chèvres are at their best and Alpine Beaufort reaches its grassy peak, autumn is the perfect time to dig into certain rich, creamy specialties – especially those made with milk from a period known as le regain.

Regain refers to regrowth, a time of renaissance in grassy fields that have been grazed upon for three long summer months. With the lowered temperatures and advent of rain (and we’ve had a lot of rain so far this fall), pastures become lush and green once more in September and October, and this regenerated source of nutrition for animals gives us some of the richest, most flavorful milk of the year.

But le regain isn't the only reason that autumn is a phenomenal time for cheese. From washed-rind delicacies the color of fall leaves to smoky specialties made by just a handful of producers to certain cheeses that aren't even sold in summer, here are my top contenders for best fall cheese.

Bleu de Termignon

If you read my free newsletter this Tuesday, you’ll already be familiar with this spontaneous blue from Savoie, known for its grainy, almost crumbly texture and barely-there blue color. This cheese can only be made from June to September, and thanks to a minimum of three months of aging, the season for digging into the first wheels is only just beginning.

Despite its greenish veins, this cheese doesn't actually eat like many of its blue brethren. Flavor-wise, I find it’s far more similar to uncooked pressed specialties like Salers or Laguiole. I love the dank, cellar-y flavors of this cheese and the slight barnyardy notes, which feel positively perfect for fall.

Smoked Crottin de Chèvre

This cheese is only made by one cheesemonger – one of my favorites in the capital.