Emily In France Exclusive 🇫🇷 My 25 Bites to Try in Paris... Part 4: Dinner

Plats de résistance.

A few weeks ago, a New York Times story began making the rounds of Paris foodie Instagram: a collection of the 25 essential dishes in Paris, curated by some of the best palates in the city. I read it with interest, bookmarking more than a couple for later visits, and then, Sara Lieberman, one of the journalists who contributed to the original (and the author, among other things, of the newsletter Overthinking It...) released her own list of the 25 essential dishes to try in Paris, as far as she and a handful of her nearest and dearest were concerned. I think you know where this is going.

While I had initially set my heart on rounding up my top 25 places in one big email, I realized it might be more palatable (and easier to digest) if I broke things into meals. Three weeks ago, I addressed breakfast, which, as I explained, is a far smaller affair in France than it is in the Anglo world. Two weeks, lunch was the star of my roundup. Last week, I explored the delights of snacks both sweet and savory. And now… it’s dinnertime.

Dinner is not historically the biggest meal in France – that honor falls to lunch – but I would be lying if I told you that dinner isn't a big deal these days, for reasons that aren't that difficult to parse. In households where both adults work, in friend groups where the same is true, dinner is the prime time for coming together. And that’s why my dinner category is double the size of either lunch or breakfast – and why it will thus span two weeks.

For dinner, I’m not necessarily citing my favorite restaurants in all of Paris, though trust me, there are some faves on here. Rather, I’m featuring the dishes I go back for again and again and again, and in a world where menus are so seasonally driven, this isn't always the easiest goal.

That said, I think I’m up for the challenge.

1. Frisée au Lardons from Chez Georges

A good frisée au lardons, also known as a salade lyonnaise, is a thing of beauty. Bitter frisée lettuce is tossed with chewy-yet-crisp cubes of fried bacon, crunchy croutons, and a zingy mustard vinaigrette. That the vinaigrette leans so hard towards the acid-forward profile is thanks to the fact that, nestled on top, the salad features a perfectly poached egg. Once popped, the yolk drips down to dress the greens in rich, creamy bliss.

Of course, not all iterations of this salad are showstoppers, so when I stumble upon a good one, I take note. The version at Chez Georges is one of the best I've ever had, high praise that goes through the roof once you take note of its size. This bowl of salad is definitely large enough for two or three. (If none of you is named Emily, that is.)

The other menu items – bistro classics like veal sweetbreads, steak-frites, and escargots – are just as lovely, by the way. Icing on the cake!

Chez Georges (1 rue du Mail, 2nd)

2. Vol Au Vent from Café des Ministères

That Meg Zimbeck of Paris by Mouth dubbed Café des Ministères her favorite restaurant of 2022 is no surprise to me: When I finally snagged a much-coveted reservation here, I was impressed to no end with the entire experience, from dining room to service to, of course, food.