Emily in France 🇫🇷 I Jumped Off A Train
A forest bath for a touch of nature
Every autumn, I have the same instinct: Head to the woods, into nature. And while it’s definitely not autumn, there’s been something woefully autumnal about this spring, one of the wettest on record. Paris has been dreary and cold, and for this sun baby, it’s been a bit hard to swallow. So this weekend, I embarked on an adventure I've been meaning to attempt for a while.
I jumped off a train.
The train in question was the Transilien line R, which typically stops at Bois le Roi and then at Fontainebleau Avron. But two morning trains each weekend also stop at a secret spot in the heart of the woods, not displayed on monitors in the station, but signaled once you're onboard as “Forêt de Fontainebleau.”
I’d been meaning to try this out for a while, and so, this weekend, sporting the same winter coat I wore on my adventure into the Vosges just a few weeks ago, I hopped off, and I breathed in the forest.
The 25,000 hectare forest was long a royal domain, giving rise to its 16th-century château. Once a hunting ground, the forest has since become known to hikers, climbers, and bikers looking to get off the beaten track.
Its majestic beauty makes it no surprise to me that the forest so inspired 19th century painters, notably those from the Barbizon school and the Impressionists.
For me, it was above all the perfect way to get out from under the claustrophobically grey skies of Paris, to breathe a bit of truly fresh air, and, yes, to embrace the fact that despite nearly 17 years in this city, there are still new experiences to have, new things to discover.
And yes, OK, it was also a good opportunity to clear out the fridge.
Cheese of the Week
This goat’s milk tomme from the Auvergne isn't just gorgeous, with its white pate, blue veins, and rusty rind. It also boasts a delicate, creamy texture and the perfect marriage of sweetness, a touch of pleasant bitterness, and just the barest barnyard funk.
To discover more of my favorite cheeses, be sure to follow me on Instagram @emily_in_france, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and tune into the Terroir Podcast, where Caroline Conner and I delve into France's cheese, wine, and more one region at a time.
What I’m Eating
Le Bistrot des Fables scratches an important itch. With its reasonable prices and copious – and possibly even excessive – portions of easy-to-love French classics without too many bells and whistles, it would be commendable no matter its location. But seeing as it’s just a few steps from the Eiffel Tower, it’s even easier to recommend this bistro. More on the blog.
Where I’m Going
1. To le Quincy, which promises to offer the sort of old-school French bistro experience I’m always craving.
2. To Lam, a relatively new bakery in the Marais, to sample, among other things, a croque croissant. (This might be the first portemanteau viennoiserie I can actually get behind!)
3. To Chez Aline, to make sure the ham-and-butter sandwich is as good as I remember it being.
What I'm Writing
1. It’s not uncommon for folks to paint Bordeaux as a smaller Paris, and while there’s some truth to that, it’s doing this amazing French city a disservice. After all, you might say to yourself, why visit a mini Paris if you’ve just left the real thing? For Walks.
2. From the archives: In Paris, you’ll definitely be visiting these museums. Skip the pricey bistros and tourists traps and seek out these fabulous Parisian eateries instead. For Fodor’s.
3. From the archives: Montélimar nougat rose to fame thanks to vacationers’ traffic jams. For Atlas Obscura.
What I'm Doing
Great news: We’ve set the dates for our next TERRE/MER retreat! Come hang out in la Ciotat to craft handmade ceramics and eat cheese and drink rosé from October 3 to 6. Book now to snag a spot!
Friends of Emily in France
I’m surrounded by some pretty exceptional entrepreneurs, writers, and tastemakers, and I think you should know about them too! From now on, each week, I’ll be profiling one person I think you should be aware of.
Not one but two of my favorite Parisians are concerned by the following announcement: best-selling author Janet Skeslien Charles is launching her new book, Miss Morgan’s Book Brigade, at Penelope Fletcher’s Red Wheelbarrow this Thursday! This amazing true story of the international group of women who were awarded the Croix de Guerre (war cross medal) for their courage under fire during World War I are brought to life with Janet’s gorgeous new book. I implore you to head over and snag your copy – and meet these two fantastic ladies.
FAQs
In an attempt to bring you the content you crave, I've solicited your help. What questions can I answer for you? Drop them into the newsletter chat, and I’ll answer as many as I can!
This week’s question comes from Margaret Hedderman. “My boyfriend (who is French) has some beliefs about cheese; namely that there is no such thing as a good cheddar. He says it tastes like sea urchins. Granted, I haven’t found a good cheddar in France yet. Bref, is there a hard, sharp cheese you would recommend? That doesn’t taste like urchins? (None of which is to say we don’t eat amazing French cheeses at basically every meal. I’ve actually had to create a cheese budget to manage my culinary explorations!)”
I love this question – and for what it’s worth, I also love cheddar! I get what Margaret's boyfriend means, though. A lot of cheddars can have a distinctively briny flavor, and especially American cheddars can have quite a bit of lingering sweetness, all of which could contribute to his belief they taste like oursins. My personal favorite cheddars are the English ones, with their grassy notes and lovely crystallization, and many are available here in France at shops like Rose Bakery (1, rue de Navarin).
That said, if these cheeses are still too urchin-y for your Frenchie, perhaps a cheddar-style cheese from France will suit your needs? Cantal, Salers, and Laguiole are all cheeses made using similar methods to cheddar for a crumbly, melt-in-your-mouth texture without quite the same pronounced sharpness. My favorite is Grand Aubrac, an iteration of Laguiole made exclusively with the milk of cows that have grazed on the high summer pastures. Subtle, creamy, and lactic with just a touch of sharpness, I think it’ll offer you the best of both worlds!
What I'm Reading
1. I grabbed this book in a flurry of research on a forthcoming story for the BBC about the ways in which French wine regions coped with the onset of World War II, but it encompasses so much more than just the period from ’39 to ’45. From the Huns to the English to the Prussians, the people of Champagne have borne the brunt of countless invasions, and they have long risen to the challenge of remaining strong and united despite these and other struggles. The Kladstrups’ approachable style makes this historical book ultra-readable, a major plus given the density of information.
2. This story offering food for thought regarding the current obsession with the Maillard reaction. (And making me feel better about not liking smashburgers.) In the New Yorker.
3. This story explaining why – and how – to take a break. In Psyche.
A bientôt !