During the first six weeks of Covid lockdown, Hamilton kept me company. Pretty much every morning, I would listen to the entire score once, if not twice, usually while translating one of the 800-some-odd recipes for chicken that had become my nearly-full-time gig, seeing as tourism was off the table. And while I have many favorite songs (“You'll Be Back” still makes me giggle; mastering the lyrics to “Guns and Ships” was my white whale), “Non-Stop” spoke to me and countless other writers with the lyric:
Why do you write like you're running out of time?
Sometimes, working as a writer feels like squeezing blood from a stone: Every word (including that unforgivable cliché) is hard-won; every scene is a mountain to climb. And then sometimes, for no reason I can really name, my fingers fly across the keyboard, words tumbling out of me almost without my having to do anything at all, assembling themselves on the page to tell a story I always feel I wouldn't have been able to craft without this little bit of what can only really be termed as magic.
I’m in one of those whorls now, and I’m soaking up this wonderful feeling, because as sure as I am that these moments of inspiration will indeed return… I also know that to look at them too closely risks jinxing them, and that for as boundless as they feel when they arrive, they always come to an end eventually.
Cheese of the Week
Continuing in my exploration of seasonal goat cheeses, we come to the Banon de Provence: a pretty little goat cheese whose chestnut leaf wrapping and raffia bow couldn't be more tempting, like a cheesy little present. This raw milk goat cheese is occasionally washed or soaked in marc de raisin – a sort of grappa – that lends it a fairly assertive flavor. I love pairing it with fresh fruit to temper some of that power.
The Crémeux du Mont Saint-Michel may not be the most famous of Normandy's cheeses, but it’s certainly a looker – and worth a try if you're a lover of double- or triple-cream Brie!
To discover more of my favorite cheeses, be sure to follow me on Instagram @emily_in_france, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and tune into the Terroir Podcast, where Caroline Conner and I delve into France's cheese, wine, and more one region at a time.
What I'm Eating
The dishes at Dupin are total stunners, with many plates – even at lunchtime – emerging from the kitchen as veritable works of art. And while I love Chef Nathan Halo’s philosophy and approach, there may be a few kinks to work out when it comes to balance before I can recommend this restaurant as wholeheartedly as I'd like. More on the blog.
Discover more of my foodie finds via Instagram @emily_in_france and on the blog.
What I’m Doing
This year, I’m hosting not one but two retreats! But they couldn't be more different from one another.
The first is a collaboration with my friend, ceramicist and product designer Camille Drozdz of Ici l’Atelier in La Ciotat. This May, when Paris weather is still dubious at best, we’ll be welcoming a handful of lucky ladies for the second iteration of our TERRE/MER retreat. Tapping into our shared passions for art, terroir, and sisterhood, the retreat is centered on a ceramics intensive tailored to the experience level of our participants (beginners? Awesome. Advanced? Come hone your skills!)
When you’re not in the studio crafting the tableware of your dreams with experienced designer Camille, I’ll be leading cooking workshops, cheese tastings, and even a beer pairing event overlooking the gorgeous port. Throw in convivial apéros, outdoor yoga (weather permitting), and downtime to explore this beautiful seaside town, and it’s a dream come true for anyone looking for the space and time to unwind and get back in touch with a slower pace.
After our first successful week in November, we heard your feedback and are now launching a long weekend format from May 18 to 21. And we still have a few spots! Check out our website and Instagram for more info.
A little over a month later, I'll be off on yet another escapade! June 26 to 30, my friend and fellow writer Anna Polonyi and I will be launching the very first iteration of the Nantes Writers’ Workshop.
During the five-day workshop, you'll take full advantage of morning generative writing sessions with me and afternoon craft and feedback workshops with Anna, an Iowa Writers’ Workshop grad and teacher based in Nantes. In the evenings, convene with us for craft talks over an apéritif. Check out our website and Instagram for more information!
Where I’m Going
I’m hopping the pond to Bristol for a long weekend! Follow my Instagram stories for beer, fish and chips, cheese, and more. (Did I mention the beer?)
What I'm Writing
1. If you're looking to explore Venice without feeling like you're tumbling from one tourist trap to another, I’ve got you covered. First, stay in the neighborhood where the locals live at the Palazzo Nani. For InsideHook.
2. Chicago bartenders have strong opinions – and fresh takes – on the martini. For InsideHook.
3. From the archives: Many top culinary masters are abandoning the French capital in favor of greener pastures, where they can have a hand not just in choosing, but in growing their ingredients. In the BBC.
What I'm Reading
1. I fell hard for Cassandra at the Wedding, whose prose spoke to me even more than its story touched me – and that’s saying a lot. The intensity of sibling bonds is something that has long captivated me in literature (maybe because of my own close relationships with my three siblings), and I don’t think I’ve read another account that so accurately shows how complex such deep relationships can be.
2. This wonderfully lucid exploration of why we have such a hard time changing our minds shines a light on what a wonderful quality it is to be capable of admitting when we’re wrong. In CollabFund.
3. This clear-headed report will keep you up to date on the latest in the new French retirement legislation – and on-the-ground feelings about Macron’s response to protests. In French Crossroads.
A bientôt !