A Perfect Day in the 2nd Arrondissement

Paris' smallest arrondissement is one of its tastiest

As compared to other European capitals like London or Rome, Paris is actually relatively well-contained and pretty walkable. And while the streets definitely don't run in straight lines (much to the horror of this native New Yorker), it’s relatively easy to see where you're going thanks to the system of arrondissements or districts, numbered 1 to 20, which spiral out in a snail shell shape from the first in the center to the 20th in the northeast.

After fifteen years here, one of my favorite activities is to explore unfamiliar corners of Paris, getting to know the personality and unique offerings of each of the arrondissements. And this gave me the idea for a new series exclusively for my subscribers: my hit list, if you will, of the must-dos (and must-eats) in each of Paris’ 20 districts.

The 2nd Arrondissement in Short

Paris’ smallest arrondissement is chock-a-block with commerce, home to the Bourse (aka stock exchange), the Sentier (aka textiles district), and les Halles (aka the “Belly of Paris.”) And while much of the actual commerce of this central bit of Paris has since moved to more spacious areas (including the Halles market, which is now near the airport), this history has left an indelible footprint on this little area, which is still home to some of my favorite foodie streets in Paris. The rue Montorgueil, historically home to the oyster peddlers of Les Halles, is now a mostly-pedestrian street dedicated to food shops; the rue Sainte-Anne is the go-to if you're looking for Japanese restaurants, and the neighborhood even boasts perhaps the most famous of Paris’ 19th century covered shopping arcades.

The shape of the 2nd forms a bit of a rhombus thanks to the barrier of boulevard des Italiens to the northwest and boulevard Poissonniere/de Bonne Nouvelle to the north/northeast (aka the beginnings of the so-called "Grands Boulevards.") Rue Etienne Marcel runs along the southern border, with boulevard de Sébastopol forming its border with the Marais (where we'll pick up next time!) This southeasternly quadrant is foodie central; the western part of the arrondissement is home to the ideal hidden, picturesque streets for getting lost in, and the stately Bourse is right in the center.

The Landmarks: rue Montorgueil, Tour Saint-Jean-sans-Peur, Passage des Panoramas, Galerie Vivienne, the Bourse

The Vibe: Market-driven and foodie

My Perfect Day in the 2nd Arrondissement

The second arrondissement being both tiny and home to loads of equally tiny streets means you’ll be spending a bit of time weaving back and forth through the quartier today. That said, given how much you’ll be eating, you might be happy for the walk! If you'd rather not be the one navigating, however, you're in luck: I offer guided tours of this area including copious tastes of pastry, cheese, and more. Contact me to book a guided tour of Les Halles to discover some of the most exciting purveyors and creators in the area.

A word on the food choices before getting going. There are loads of spots in the 2nd that come with high praise that I have yet to try: places like Liza (Lebanese), Jugaad (Indian), Aux Lyonnais (French), and more. I'm specifically very oblivious to what’s good on rue Sainte-Anne, so if you're jonesing for Japanese, check out some of these suggestions. TLDR: My recommendations are my own, but this is just the tip of the iceberg of foodie offerings in the 2nd.

My second bit of housekeeping: If you don't want to be disappointed, do not follow this guide on a Monday. Pretty much everything I suggest for the afternoon (as is the case with many foodie businesses in Paris) will be shut.

All set? Then let’s get eating. First stop: Breakfast.