My name is Emily, I live in Paris, and I love cheese. Welcome to my world!
My weekly newsletter, sent every Tuesday, features everything from investigative journalism to restaurant reviews to, of course, a cheese of the week. Paid subscribers also gain access to a bimonthly missive, sent every other Thursday, delving into topics like my favorite places for breakfast and lunch in Paris, the ins and outs of France’s many fromageries, how to navigate the Louvre without getting too overwhelmed (or too hungry), and the pastries I think you shouldn't leave our fair city without tasting. Paid subscribers also get access to the full archives!
I hope my newsletter is a great resource for discerning food nerds heading to Paris, but if you need more help, I also offer tours, in-person and online tastings, and even bespoke itineraries to visitors to Paris – and if you're a nerd, you're in luck. My tours are generally built around my joint passions for terroir and history, which is why the story of Catherine de Medici (aka the real-life Cersei Lannister) is often served up with a rich cream puff, and tales of medieval innovation, the Industrial Revolution, and trench warfare permeate my tours of my favorite places in Paris – its cheese shops.
Whether you want to delve into the Paris of Ernest Hemingway, taste your way through beautiful Montmartre, or explore the dark history of Paris' revolutionary era, your tailor-made tour awaits you. Here are just a few of the experiences that I can offer:
Romans, Royalty, and Rum Baba. Explore 2,000 years of Parisian history in just three hours with this walking tour perfect for newcomers to Paris and long-time visitors who want an insider’s look at some of its most emblematic monuments. Begin with one of the city’s best croissants before wending your way through vestiges of Ancient Roman settlements, discovering Notre Dame, the Louvre, and Palais Royal. Finish with sweet or savory bites – or a full classic French lunch in the neighborhood once dubbed the Belly of Paris.
A Local’s Guide to Cheese, Wine, and More on the Canal Saint-Martin. Explore my local neighborhood – and all of my favorite foodie vendors – on this off-the-beaten-track food tour. Over the course of 2 1/2 hours, you’ll discover excellent baked goods, cheese, and wine, accompanied by historical tidbits including why we give the Austrians credit for our most famous pastry. Finish with a convivial ‘round the barrel tasting of cheese, wine, bread, and more with one of my favorite cavistes in the city.
Discover Cheese with “That Cheese Girl.” Cheese is pretty much my favorite thing in the world. Let me introduce you to just some of the 1,800 varieties that have captured my heart with a dedicated cheese shop visit followed by a one-hour tasting, which can take place anywhere from my local covered market to your AirBnb and more. Optional pairing with wine or beer.
Finding the Lost Generation. This 2 1/2-hour guided tour of Lost Generation-Era Paris will bring you to some of the most storied bars, restaurants, and landmarks that enchanted Hemingway, Fitzgerald, and more. Finish with a drink in one of Hemingway’s favorite bars. (Or Oscar Wilde’s, depending on your vibe!)
Carnivores in the Swamp. The Marais may be known for vintage shops and art galleries, but it’s also a foodie mecca, as this meat-focused tour will show. This two-hour tour will grant you access to the talented artisans dry-aging and cooking excellent beef and crafting some of the city’s best charcuterie.
The Louvre My Way. This skip-the-line private tour of the Louvre’s most famous masterpieces keeps things short-and-sweet: 2 1/2 hours, with or without a treasure hunt to keep the littlest visitors engaged. Option to add a cheese-and-wine tasting afterwards to discuss your favorites.
Tour de France of Wine. This in-depth, two-hour wine tasting will showcase the ins and outs of six of France's major wine appellations, complemented by cheese and charcuterie.
Find out more here!
A journalist and culinary tour guide based in Paris for over 15 years, I write about cheese (and other food, too) for publications including the BBC, Atlas Obscura, and the Infatuation. (You can find my writing porfolio here.)
I am also the host of the podcast, Navigating the French, where each week I examine a French word with an expert to try to see what it tells us about French culture. Thus far, I've explored words like bonjour, laïcité, non, and francophonie with experts including authors Julie Barlow and Lindsey Tramuta, journalist Sylvia Sabes, and academic Dr. Gemma King.
Welcome and bon appétit!
Paris … led by a true insider … guiding in, around, and through a way of life that is known and experienced by few. Thank you, Emily. The Canal Saint-Martin tour was beyond all expectations! Continued success!
Because my daughter was interested in the history of Paris and also cheese, we were excited to find Emily. She really gave us an education about Paris, cheese, and pastry, and helped us to make the most of the short time that we had in Paris. She found us shops and restaurants that were amazing, and that we never would have found on our own. We had a great time on the tour and appreciated Emily's knowledge and good humor. Highly recommended!