A Perfect Day in the 5th Arrondissement

Ancient Romans and literary icons abound

As compared to other European capitals like London or Rome, Paris is actually relatively well-contained and pretty walkable. And while the streets definitely don't run in straight lines (much to the horror of this native New Yorker), it’s relatively easy to see where you're going thanks to the system of arrondissements or districts, numbered 1 to 20, which spiral out in a snail shell shape from the first in the center to the 20th in the northeast.

After fifteen years here, one of my favorite activities is to explore unfamiliar corners of Paris, getting to know the personality and unique offerings of each of the arrondissements. And this gave me the idea for a new series exclusively for my subscribers: my hit list, if you will, of the must-dos (and must-eats) in each of Paris’ 20 districts.

We’ve already ventured through the 1st arrondissement, home to the Louvre, and the 2nd arrondissement, Paris’ smallest. We’ve delved into the 3rd arrondissement, aka most of the Marais, as well as the islands that encompass much of the 4th. Now it’s time to explore one of the city's most touristy neighborhoods, which is nevertheless a personal fave. Welcome to the 5th!

The 5th Arrondissement in Short

The 5th arrondissement corresponds to a large extent to the Latin Quarter, so named both for its status as the heart of Ancient Roman Lutetia and for the fact that it’s home to the Sorbonne, the city's first university, where instruction was originally conducted in Latin. The Seine forms the north-northwestern limit of the 5th, with the boulevard de l’Hôpital, boulevard Saint-Marcel, and boulevard du Port-Royal dividing it from the 13th’s Gare d’Austerlitz and Gobelins, so named for the tapestry factory of the same name. To the east, meanwhile, it’s divided quite neatly by the boulevard Saint-Michel from the 6th, which we’ll explore next time.

The 5th is home to many Parisian monuments and museums, from the Pantheon to the Cluny Museum to the Arab World Institute. It also boasts a gorgeous botanical garden, the Jardin des Plantes, which itself is home to the National Museum of Natural History and overlooks the Grande Mosquée de Paris. This neighborhood’s past as the heart of Ancient Roman Lutetia means it’s also home to some of Paris’ best preserved Roman ruins, and it also happens to boast some of my favorite weekly food markets.

Thanks to the Sorbonne, this area has a pretty studenty vibe, boasting cheap bars, independent cinemas, bookshops, and more shawarma stands than I can count on both hands.

The Landmarks: Jardin des Plantes, Grande Mosquée de Paris, la Sorbonne, Cluny Museum, Shakespeare and Company, rue Mouffetard, Arènes de Lutèce, the Pantheon, Arab World Institute

The Vibe: Studenty, historical, touristy

My Perfect Day in the 5th Arrondissement

The 5th arrondissement certainly has its strengths… and it also has its weaknesses. It’s one of the more historic arrondissements, boasting Ancient Roman ruins and the city's medieval museum, not to mention cultural touchstones like Shakespeare and Company bookshop. That said, the food scene is fairly congested with ho-hum tourist traps, and if you're not careful, you may end up eating some of the mass-produced food that has contributed to France passing a recent law cracking down on labels that show food is actually made fresh in-house.

Luckily, I’m here to help.