Emily in France 🇫🇷 Dreaming of the South
It's rainy in Paris, and I've got sunshine on the brain
Paris has been enjoying one of its rainiest years since 1937, which means I’ve got my head in the clouds, dreaming of sunshine. And where better to go for sun than my beloved La Ciotat for a TERRE/MER retreat?
These women-led retreats are a passion project shared and co-founded with my friend and partner-in-crime Camille Drozdz. United by our shared passions for art and food, we founded TERRE/MER with the goal of uniting like-minded women for a restorative, convivial long weekend in pursuit of deep connection with the earth through seasonal foods, clay-based creativity, and exploration.
Several years later, we’re just as excited about our mission – and we're getting into full gear planning for our fall edition.
Camille’s Ici l’Atelier is the hub of our retreats, where her love of ceramics, experience as an award-winning product designer, and natural flair for pedagogy mean that over the course of a ten-hour intensive workshop, participants craft their own unique set of tableware.
Previous participants have made everything from matcha cups to flower vases to servingware for olives complete with a special spot for the pits.
I myself made the very gratte-ail (garlic scratchers? Garlic graters?) we use to make homemade aioli.
Yes, unsurprisingly, food is my contribution to the partnership, from sourcing ingredients at local farms to guiding participants in hands-on workshops, where they master some of the many tips and tricks I've gleaned from the pros over the years, whether it’s how to hard-boil the perfect egg thanks to the 2022 vice-champion of the best egg-mayo contest (thanks, Chris!) to how to make a delicious, flaky pastry without any butter in it at all.
In addition to these experiential workshops, I also make sure everyone is well-fed and ready to embark on the day’s adventures, whether it’s a hike into la Ciotat’s beautiful calanques, a morning harborside yoga class, or a shopping trip among the village’s beautiful boutiques.
I also take full advantage of the rich offerings of one of my favorite cheesemongers to offer a guided cheese tasting – complete with local wines, bien sûr.
Our next long weekend will be taking place from October 3 to 6, and signups are open. Snag a spot before it’s too late, and be sure to sign up for our newsletter to get the latest info on what we're planning for this edition and editions to come.
We can't wait to welcome you.
Cheese of the Week
I’ll be fleeing Paris for the Olympic opening ceremony, but not to the South. Rather, I’ll be headed to Wales — and I may just get my hands on some Hafod, a rich Welsh-made cheddar with a lovely golden color that’s occasionally shot through with blue, like this piece I scored on my last visit. The unpasteurized cheese is made by Wales' longest certified organic dairy farm and boasts a complex, earthy flavor and a lovely, buttery texture.
To discover more of my favorite cheeses, be sure to follow me on Instagram @emily_in_france, subscribe to my YouTube channel, and tune into the Terroir Podcast, where Caroline Conner and I delve into France's cheese, wine, and more one region at a time.
What I’m Eating
I visited Le Bon Georges for the first time in May 2022, and to be honest, I wasn’t super impressed. While I love the mission behind this bistro just steps from Montmartre, which walks the walk of local, top-notch sourcing and has exactly décor one hopes for for restaurants of the genre – down to the most adorable plates depicting farm animals – I was put off by the overly Anglo dining room and the exorbitant prices, and I found the food to be disappointing, especially given the aforementioned. But following a recent visit with a friend, I find myself eating my (expensive) words. Sort of. More on the blog.
Where I’m Going
1. To my local covered market to celebrate Fête de la Musique while avoiding the thunderstorms.
2. To Nantes, to embark on the second annual Nantes Writers’ Workshop.
3. To Montmartre, to intro some of my favorite bites – and views – to visitors to Paris. (If you want to get in on the fun, book a private tour with me!)
What I'm Writing
1. Paris is a shopper’s paradise, home to countless luxury boutiques and artisan shops boasting the perfect gift for everyone from your foodie friend to your fashionista roommate, not to mention the ideal keepsake to remind you of your time away. Here are my go-to picks for unique souvenirs, for Walks.
2. The egg industry can be a confusing place, with a host of labels touting a variety of humane practices and health benefits, many of which don't mean anything at all. Given the ever-skyrocketing prices for even bog standard eggs, now more than ever, it's essential for consumers to inform themselves about what's really going on behind the scenes. For Mashed.
3. From the archives: There may be nothing as prototypically Parisian as a croissant, with its crispy golden exterior and tender layers of buttery bliss within. But take a look in any bakery case from New York to Melbourne these days, and you'll find the croissant has been contorted into a host of portmanteau pastries from the cruffin to the Cronut. Recently, Paris has even become home to its very own: a mashup of the croissant and the all-American chocolate chip cookie called the "crookie". For the BBC.
Friends of Emily in France
I’m surrounded by some pretty exceptional entrepreneurs, writers, and tastemakers, and I think you should know about them too! From now on, each week, I’ll be profiling one person I think you should be aware of.
Chris Edwards, maker of, among other things, my favorite steak tartare, has recently opened his brand-new Café des Musiciens in Nice with his wife, Charlotte Leon. The new restaurant is sure to be a destination for both tourists and locals looking to take full advantage of Nice’s local bounty.
The restaurant serves an affordable 27-euro three-course, seasonally-driven menu rife with winks at Chris’ Australian background: Think crumpets topped with local tomatoes and summer savory or a garrigue honey parfait with cherries. In the evening, a few tapas join the menu, including local charcuterie and Chris’ award-winning egg-mayonnaise.
Café des Musiciens is open for lunch Monday to Friday and for dinner Wednesday to Friday.
FAQs
In an attempt to bring you the content you crave, I've solicited your help. What questions can I answer for you? Drop them into the newsletter chat, and I’ll answer as many as I can!
This week’s question comes from Instagram user Loueesey. “Do you know any of these amazing cheese shops that offer take away cheese boards (ie a selection of cheeses of their recommendation)?”
Why yes, I do!
There are quite a few cheese shops that offer ready-made cheese selections, of which Marie-Anne Cantin is probably my favorite. This beautiful shop near the Eiffel Tower is well worth a visit, and Cantin is happy to curate a beautiful board for your needs.
If you're looking to enjoy a cheese board sur place, meanwhile, I love Monbleu, a cheese-focused restaurant with its own on-site aging cellar.
But of course, I think the best boards are the ones you create yourself – and I can help! I offer guided tours of cheese shops in Paris perfect for creating a custom board to enjoy at home, at your hotel, at a local covered market, or even in a wine shop accompanied by a glass or two of tasty French wine. Book your tour today!
What I'm Reading
1. I loved getting lost in All-Night Pharmacy's strange, dreamy world. This story explores what happens when a woman’s codependent relationship with her sister comes to a head, leading her on a journey of self-discovery. It wakes up some tired tropes, including the manic pixie dream girl, and effortlessly weaves in themes linked to identity and intergenerational trauma. I especially loved how complete it felt by the end, despite not all of the arcs being tied up in neat bows. A wonderful, immersive read.
2. This story about the ways that different writers cope with – or conceive of – writer’s block. In LitHub.
3. This delightful ode to turkey necks. In the Food Section.
A bientôt !