A Perfect Day in the 6th Arrondissement

Literary ghosts and contemporary treats in Saint-Germain

As compared to other European capitals like London or Rome, Paris is actually relatively well-contained and pretty walkable. And while the streets definitely don't run in straight lines (much to the horror of this native New Yorker), it’s relatively easy to see where you're going thanks to the system of arrondissements or districts, numbered 1 to 20, which spiral out in a snail shell shape from the first in the center to the 20th in the northeast.

After fifteen years here, one of my favorite activities is to explore unfamiliar corners of Paris, getting to know the personality and unique offerings of each of the arrondissements. And this gave me the idea for a new series exclusively for my subscribers: my hit list, if you will, of the must-dos (and must-eats) in each of Paris’ 20 districts.

We’ve already ventured through the 1st arrondissement, home to the Louvre, and the 2nd arrondissement, Paris’ smallest. We’ve delved into the 3rd arrondissement, aka most of the Marais, as well as the islands that encompass much of the 4th. We wended our way through the 5th arrondissement, Paris’ oldest. Now it’s time to explore the area that has long captivated Paris’ literary set – and these days is a fashionista’s dream. Welcome to the 6th!

The 6th Arrondissement in Short

The 6th arrondissement was once the stomping grounds of much of Paris' intelligentsia, particularly the Anglophones. Picking up where the 5th leaves off along boulevard Saint-Michel, the 6th extends as far as the boulevard de Montparnasse to the south and rue de Sèvres in the southwest. When rue de Sèvres turns to rue du Four, the 6th follows rue des Saints-Pères as far as the Seine.

The 6th is also sometimes referred to as Saint-Germain, a name it gets from the church and boulevard of the same name at its heart. Saint-Germain has connotations of slightly offbeat luxury, known less for the ultra-ritzy restaurants and luxury shops of the 1st and 8th as for small boutiques and picturesque sidewalk terraces. The neighborhood is indeed home to some of Paris’ most famous cafés, including Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots, Brasserie Lipp, and La Closerie des Lilas, not to mention an outpost of the 1st’s turn-of-the-century tearoom Angelina and the city's oldest coffee house, le Procope.

One of the 6th's most beautiful assets is undoubtedly the Jardin de Luxembourg. It's also home to a covered market as well as an organic market along Boulevard Raspail (only open on Sunday mornings). You’ll also a few small museums and loads of secret treasures to discover.

The Landmarks: Jardin de Luxembourg, Eglise de Saint-Germain des Prés, Eugène Delacroix Museum, Marché Saint-Germain, Odéon, Eglise Saint-Sulpice, Cour du Commerce Saint-André, Café de Flore, Café les Deux Magots

The Vibe: Chic, boutiquey, cafés galore

My Perfect Day in the 6th Arrondissement

I was recently talking with a fellow tourism professional about some of our favorite neighborhoods in Paris, and at a certain point in the conversation, she sighed.

“But they all just want to go back to Saint-Germain.”

Saint-Germain does indeed have a certain draw, especially for Americans, who imagine the Fitzgeralds sipping Champagne at the illustrious Café de Flore or Hemingway strangling pigeons in the Luxembourg Gardens. And while much of its literary prowess remains firmly in the past (even Google Maps calls the Boulevard Saint-Germain a “former literary hub turned shopping road,” there’s more than enough to uncover here for fans of not just literature but shopping, pastry, and wine.