A Perfect Day in the 9th Arrondissement

SoPi is the place to be

As compared to other European capitals like London or Rome, Paris is actually relatively well-contained and pretty walkable. And while the streets definitely don't run in straight lines (much to the horror of this native New Yorker), it’s relatively easy to see where you're going thanks to the system of arrondissements or districts, numbered 1 to 20, which spiral out in a snail shell shape from the first in the center to the 20th in the northeast.

After eighteen years here, one of my favorite activities is to explore unfamiliar corners of Paris, getting to know the personality and unique offerings of each of the arrondissements. And this gave me the idea for a new series exclusively for my subscribers: my hit list, if you will, of the must-dos (and must-eats) in each of Paris’ 20 districts.

We’ve already ventured through the 1st arrondissement, home to the Louvre, and the 2nd arrondissement, Paris’ smallest. We’ve delved into the 3rd arrondissement, aka most of the Marais, as well as the islands that encompass much of the 4th arrondissement. We wended our way through the 5th arrondissement, Paris’ oldest, and through the 6th arrondissement, long beloved by literary legends. We paid a visit to the Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement, and we soaked up the luxury in the 8th arrondissement. Now it’s time to head to one of Paris’ most phenomenal foodie destinations. Welcome to the 9th!

The 9th Arrondissement in Short

The 9th arrondissement is nothing if not varied. It encompasses much of the grandeur of the aptly named Grands Boulevards but is also home to quaint, close-quartered covered passages dating to the 19th century. It’s where you’ll find the imposing and elegant Palais Garnier opera house and several of the grands magasins, the luxurious department stores Emile Zola described in Au Bonheur des Dames, but it's also long been home to a totally different kind of bonheur – that promised by the Red Light District to the north.

The 9th is home to multiple market streets teeming with commerces de bouche (mouth businesses, aka food stores) as well as picturesque pocket parks. And you’ll find heaps of specialized theaters and more delicious restaurants than you can visit in a week, much less a day.

To the north, along boulevard de Clichy and boulevard Rochechouart, the 9th arrondissement abuts the 18th and Montmartre, lending it its hip new nickname, SoPi (South Pigalle). To the east, it's divided from the 10th along rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, once the major artery by which seafood was brought from the coast into the Les Halles market district in the 2nd. The Grands Boulevards of Poissonnière, Montmartre, Italiens, and Capucines divide it from the 2nd to the south, while to the east, it abuts the 8th along rue du Havre and rue Amsterdam.

The Landmarks: Palais Garnier, Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, rue des Martyrs, Passage Jouffroy, Musée Grévin, Musée de la Vie Romantique

The Vibe: Food-focused, walkable, and teeming with secrets

My Perfect Day in the 9th Arrondissement

The perfect French day in any arrondissement begins, of course, with breakfast, and the 9th is home to no shortage of phenomenal bakeries. While I could easily recommend the scones at Rose Bakery (46, Rue des Martyrs) or the fluffy babka from BabkaZana (65, Rue Condorcet), I’m going to throw my hat in with heaps of other local experts and recommend Mamiche (45, rue Condorcet).

Mamiche is named for its massive sourdough loaves, but it’s beloved for its viennoiserie. The croissant manages to be both airy and light and positively heaving with butter, so much so that it drenches the paper bag in the moments between receiving it and getting it outside. Add to this the criminally reasonable inflation-proof cream puffs, ethereally buttery brioche, and only cinnamon roll in Paris actually worthy of the name, and it’s a go-to for good reason.

Tote your spoils to KB CaféShop (53, avenue Trudaine) for an excellent cup of craft coffee or one of the city’s best chai lattes. You can enjoy your breakfast on the square overlooking the carousel or walk a mere 6 minutes to Square d’Anvers, a park with a view of the Sacré Coeur basilica sitting like a wedding cake atop the Montmartre hill.

You know how you don't go to the supermarket hungry? Breakfast in the 9th is going to be kind of the same deal, seeing as you're going to want to have something lining your stomach before venturing back the way you came to explore rue des Martyrs, which Elain Sciolino aptly dubbed “a half-mile of magic” in her The Only Street in Paris: Life on the rue des Martyrs. This street named for Saint-Vincent, the martyr who gave Montmartre its name, is lined with some of my favorite foodie shops in the city.

It’s hard to pick favorites, but if forced, I’ll share that I particularly love Quatrehomme at number 26 for cheese, Glazed at number 54 for ice cream, Farine & O (10) and Le Pain Retrouvé (18) for bread and viennoiseries, and Maison Le Roux (24) for chocolate and caramels. But you're sure to find even more lovely shops dedicated to all things food, not to mention a few clothing boutiques and beautiful florists.

At the bottom of the street, check out the Notre-Dame de Lorette church, a neoclassical structure boasting beautiful columns out front, then continue along rue de Châteaudun towards the Square d’Estienne d’Orves, a small park in front of Sainte-Trinité church complete with a beautiful fountain.

From here, it’s time to take advantage of some of the 9th’s major cultural draws, and depending on your vibes, that could mean a number of late morning activities.

The Musée de la Vie Romantique was once the home of Dutch painter Ary Scheffer and has since become a museum displaying art and furnishings from the Romantic era, notably many items owned by novelist George Sand. It’s currently closed for renovations until March 2026, but the second it reopens, I plan to head over to explore the collections, check out any new temporary exhibits, and linger in the gorgeous gardens.

Shoppers will definitely want to visit the major department stores along the aptly named Grands Boulevards, which run where Charles V and Louis XIII’s confining walls once stood. It was Louis XIV who decided to raze them and replace them with this line of majestic boulevards, now home to both the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps department stores. The stained glass cupola of the Galeries Lafayette is definitely worth a look, even if you're not buying anything, and at Christmastime, I love to come here and check out the festive windows.

If shopping ain’t your thing, you should still head to the southern part of the arrondissement to take in the gorgeous Palais Garnier, the gilded opera house built at the end of the 19th century, during the Haussmannien renovation of Paris and home to the eponymous phantom. The ceiling of the theater was painted by Marc Chagall; you can have a look even if you're not seeing a ballet here by booking a guided tour.

Whatever you do with the rest of your morning, be sure to sneak into the rue Edouard VII, a teeny, picturesque, one-way street before seeking out lunch.

Where to eat is undoubtedly one of the toughest decisions you’ll make all day. Luckily, I’ve got loads of ideas for you, including perhaps my favorite rooftop in all of Paris.